The Looming Head of Jānis Zvīdra in Rēzekne, Latvia

If you are driving through the town of Rēzekne in Latvia’s Latgale region, keep your eyes peeled near the train station junction. Right there on a grassy corner, you’ll encounter an incredibly stoic, oversized stone head staring intensely into the distance. This is the monument to Jānis Zvīdra, and it is a textbook example of how the Soviet Union loved to turn local teenagers into monumental legends.

Zvīdra was a local boy who became a passionate communist activist during the chaotic aftermath of World War I. He was caught and killed by Latvian security forces in 1920 at the tender age of 25. Decades later, in 1971, the Soviet authorities decided he was the perfect candidate for some classic propaganda glorification. They commissioned a massive gray granite bust, slapped it onto a polished black marble pillar, and turned him into a permanent hometown hero.

What makes this spot wonderfully unique today isn’t just the intense, “socialist-realist” look on his face—which makes him look like a very stressed comic book character wearing a flat cap—but the fact that he is still standing at all. While the Baltic states have actively cleared out almost all Soviet military monuments, Zvīdra has somehow managed to hang onto his quiet street corner, mostly because he was an ethnic local rather than a foreign general. It’s a bizarre, fascinating slice of retro political history hiding right next to a park bench, making it the perfect roadside quick-stop for anyone tracking down the remaining, subtle ghosts of the twentieth century.