Almaty, the largest city in Kazakhstan, completely surprised me – in the best way possible. While I did not exactly know what I expected, deep down I imagined another large post-Soviet City, but my first impressions made me question everything I thought I knew.
Instead of feeling like I was in Central Asia, it felt more like wandering the streets of Madrid or a smaller, greener version of Vienna. It was so European, I could hardly believe it. Wide tree lined boulevards, endless chic cafes, and wide open green spaces gave an immediate sense of order and calm – a refreshing contrast to the energy of typically large cities.
Although Almaty was a confirmed destination from the get-go since I had booked my flight home from this city, my arrival there was quite spontaneous.
Whilst in Karakol, Kyrgyzstan, I overheard some travellers mention their long bus ride from Almaty, and it got me thinking. The weather was looking grim for the next few days. The yurt stay by Issyk Kul Lake was not looking quite as attractive as it was when I first booked it, so whilst in the taxi to the local bus station, I changed my mind and decided to go to Almaty instead – which departed in less than an hour from a different station.
I knew that Almaty would be a great place to end a trip, since I had heard it was quite a relaxed city to base yourself in, while venturing off on day trips to the surrounding areas.
With hand gestures and a few words in broken Russian, I managed to get the point across to my confused Yandex driver that I would need to go to the Central bus station rather than the local one I had originally booked for (to clarify, Yandex is the equivalent and much cheaper version of Uber). He eventually agreed, and once I went to the bus station, I gave him an extra two euros instead of the one euro he asked for, which made him grin from ear to ear.
After a 7-hour bus ride through the mountains via the lesser-visited and slightly more adventurous border crossing, I arrived in ultra-modern Almaty.
From discovering the city’s endless activities and leafy parks to exploring the cultural highlights with locals (and tasting some questionable local delicacies), I will outline the best way to experience this unique city and its surreal surrounding landscapes.
Location & how to get there
Almaty has a prime location close to both Bishkek and Karakol, so it can be reached from either direction.
This is perhaps what led me to book my flights into Tashkent (Uzbekistan) and out of Almaty – it just made logical sense. Unlike the capital city of Astana, which is much further away in the mountains, Almaty is a much easier city to include in an overland itinerary.
It is because of this that Almaty – the cultural capital of Kazakhstan – is a natural starting or ending point for most travellers in Central Asia.
During my trip, I met an equal number of travellers who had begun or planned to end their trip in Almaty, like me. Many travellers arrive from Bishkek (the capital of Kyrgyzstan), which is around 4 hours away, or from more remote regions like Karakol, which is a little longer (approx 7 hours) but offers a more “off the beaten path” experience.
The journey from Karakol felt like a transition between worlds.
Out the window, I witnessed rolling landscapes, mountain passes, red canyons and wide open space slowly giving way to a dense, structured city framed by peaks. It was quite the view, and I was happy I chose this alternative, spontaneous route, since I had originally planned to do the Bishkek – Almaty route.
The Tian Shan mountains dominate the skyline around Almaty and stretch across Kyrgyzstan and China. It is because of Almaty’s prime mountainside location that winter sports, hiking and mountaineering are popular activities.
Where to stay in Almaty
I have to say that as a budget traveller, I almost always luck out when it comes to securing affordable accommodation that becomes memorable or even exceeds my expectations.
Almaty was the first place on my Central Asia trip where I got the accommodation wrong, so I had to move rooms and eventually move to a new accommodation altogether.
My mistake was prebooking and prepaying 3 nights at Gloria Hostel (a place not even mentioned on Google Maps) before setting foot in the building. The location couldn’t be beaten, but the top bunk had zero privacy, there were no plug sockets or lockers, and my roommates were nocturnal in every sense of the word. Needless to say, I complained and was moved rooms the next day.
Yet, the next three nights were fantastic. I booked into the quirky Alladin Capsule Hotel, which was double the price – but sanity and peace are priceless in my eyes.
My room was exactly as described – a capsule room, but it had everything you needed and was incredibly clean and cosy, which I loved. The bathrooms were great, there was a free laundry room on site and a large Aladdin-themed common area with cushions on the floor to chill out and socialise.
What I had come to realise was that Almaty had some incredible options for hostels and hotels. With that in mind, here is a breakdown of some of the best hotels and hostels in Almaty to suit your budget.
Budget (approx $9-$15)
- Hostel Q7 – A simple but thoughtfully run hostel with a reputation for outstanding hospitality. Stay here for warm, attentive hosts and a peaceful atmosphere. (A fellow traveller raved about his stay here, but it was booked out for my dates).
- Wanderlust Hostel Riverside is one of Almaty’s most social hostels, with spacious common areas, a leafy courtyard and regular film nights. It’s an easy place to meet other travellers while staying close to the historic centre.
Mid-range (approx $25 – $50)
- Alladin Capsule Hotel (author’s selected stay) – It’s a 2026 opening that leans fully into the Aladdin theme with the lamps down and the floor cushions in the common area – the capsules are roomier and quieter than the word suggests.
- UIDE Apart Hotel – Apartment-style rooms with a 24-hour desk, daily room service and laundry on request, which makes it a good pick if you want your own space and a kitchen – better suited for longer stays.
Luxury (approx $60 – $110)
- Grand Tian Sian Hotel is the city’s classic grand hotel, with high ceilings, traditional interiors, and a full-service spa featuring two indoor pools and a hammam. It’s a 5-minute walk from Almaly Metro and within easy walking distance of Panfilov Park.
- Renion Almaty Hotel (for a modern stay at a central location). You’ll be staying in the heart of the historic centre, with the city’s main sights within walking distance.
Tip: I opted to stay “central”, close to some of the main attractions, but I came to realise that with the metro, it was not necessary to be central, because I took the metro anyway. There is just one metro line, which is very easy to use and cheap (Approx Approximate — rates updated daily) and takes you to all of the main areas.
I would advise choosing a hotel or hostel that is within walking distance of a metro station, which saves you from paying the higher Yandex fares if you are staying further out of the city. Yandex is still cheap in Almaty, but not as cheap as destinations in Uzbekistan or Kyrgyzstan – so it depends on your budget and preferences.
For example, a 30-minute journey in Uzbekistan usually costs between Approximate — rates updated daily and Approximate — rates updated daily, while Almaty is almost double. This is still extraordinarily cheap compared to Europe, but it is worth noting this.
Best things to do in Almaty
Almaty is one of those cities that strikes the perfect balance between urban life and nature. My local guide during my walking tour said that one of her favourite things is that you can be in the mountains within 30 minutes of leaving the city, which is quite the feature.
In Almaty, you can spend the morning in a café downtown and be surrounded by mountains by the afternoon.
While the city itself is relatively compact, don’t be fooled because many of the city’s attractions are located around the city, and it is a great base for exploring iconic landmarks a little further afield.
I planned to explore Almaty for 2 – 3 days and spend 3 days doing day trips to the surrounding lakes and canyons, but in hindsight, I probably needed less time in Almaty than I originally planned. I would recommend 2 days for Almaty City and 2 days for day trips, but I will go into more detail further along.
1. Walking tour of Almaty
Like many cities across Central Asia, I found that joining a free walking tour was one of the best ways to get acquainted with a new destination. I ended up doing one in almost every city I visited, and Almaty was no exception.
My tour was led by a fantastic local guide named Karakoz, who gave both the American couple and me a truly memorable experience.
Her local knowledge, personal stories, and enthusiasm for the city brought Almaty to life in a way that would have been impossible to experience on my own. We went to the various attractions around the city and got inside knowledge into the culture and traditions of Kazakhstan.
One of which we all found extremely interesting was the fact that women who bear and raise 4 or more children are rewarded by the Kazakh government. This can include benefits such as money, free transport, free entrance or a discount. It is no wonder you can see so many kids around Almaty.
This is the exact tour we went for. It runs 2,5 hours, starting at Panfilov Park and taking in Zenkov Cathedral, the Green Bazaar and Arbat, which covers the central ground.
Guruwalk tours don’t have a set price; you pay the guide at the end, however much you think it was worth.
2. Zenkov Cathedral & Panfilov Square
On my first official day in Almaty, I ventured out to explore, and this was my first stop. Zenkov Cathedral (also known as Ascension Cathedral) is the focal point in the centre of Panfilov Square, and is quite the attraction.
Not only is this visually striking Russian Orthodox Cathedral known for its vibrant colours and ornate domes, but it is also an architectural marvel.
This unique structure is completely made of wood and was built using no nails – one of the tallest of its kind in the world. Quite the masterpiece! During my walking tour, I also visited the inside (head coverings are available at the entrance for free), which was truly spectacular.
Panfilov Square became my sanctuary whenever I needed shade from the sun or wanted to sit and read amongst the green landscapes. This was a fantastic place to watch the world go by and see local families enjoying outings together.
3. The Green Bazaar
The Green Bazaar is one of the most authentic experiences in Almaty, especially if you love local markets like me. Inside, you’ll find rows of dried fruits, spices, nuts, fresh produce, meats, and traditional snacks and some slightly squamish sections that display horsemeat and sheep heads.
I went here as part of my walking tour and got to try a few local delicacies like horse milk and camel milk as well as a very sweet cheese, all of which were quite interesting. It’s also a great place to pick up more familiar edible souvenirs like dried apricots, nuts, and local sweets, but again, it is pricier for these items than Uzbekistan or Kyrgyzstan (sometimes double).
4. Big Almaty Lake
If you have extra time, you can visit Big Almaty Lake, located about an hour from the city, depending on traffic and road conditions. While access rules can change depending on security restrictions, most visitors go as part of an organised group tour or taxi trip that allows you to reach viewing points above the lake.
I did not have this high on my list since I planned to venture further to the lakes and canyons, but I have heard from friends that it is a great local attraction if you want to enjoy nature close to the city.
This Big Almaty Lake tour splits in 2 versions depending on how much walking you want:
- The hiking version, if you want the walk to be the point: 14 km up and a stop at the lake. It’s only worth it if you’re in reasonable shape.
- The car version: a morning trip that gives you an hour at the lake, then continues to the Alma-Arasan hot springs – a 20-minute walk along a mountain river.
The lake is usually frozen from November through May, so time your arrival dates wisely.
5. Kok Tobe
I dedicated a day to venturing up to Kok Tobe via the cable car, but you only need a couple of hours to do this since there is not much up there apart from amusements and viewpoints.
It’s a slightly touristy spot, but the panoramic view of Almaty framed by the Tian Shan mountains makes it worth it. This is an excellent place to watch the sunset; however, I visited in the early morning to avoid the midday heat.
To get there, you can either walk along the trail to the top and back or take the cable car. The cable car was Approximate — rates updated daily each way, so I decided to take it up and then walk back down, for the views and for the experience.
This felt quite expensive to me, so I would recommend doing the one-way journey as I did. On the way back down, the trail will lead you past the iconic TV tower, which is the tallest of its kind in the world.
Best day trips from Almaty
Almaty is an excellent place to stay if you want to visit stunning lakes, canyons, mountains and ski resorts. You could easily spend a lot longer than planned if you want to do everything there is to do, but I’d like to do a 2-day trip to Charyn Canyon, the Black Canyon, Kolsai Lake and Kandai Lake.
There are many day tours that you can book, which are very affordable (under Approximate — rates updated daily for 2 days or Approximate — rates updated daily for a day trip). I will explain the highlights first and then my awkward experience.
- Hit the 3 famous Almaty day trips in 1 day – Charyn Canyon, Kolsai and Kaindy are spread across the same stretch of road east of Almaty, and doing them separately means three long drives instead of one.
- Visit Altyn Emel National Park to see the famous Singing Dune, explore the volcanic Katutau Mountains, and travel through one of Kazakhstan’s largest national parks.
- Hike to Bogdanovich Glacier and Oktyabrskaya Cave on this full-day adventure from Almaty, combining a Shymbulak cable car ride with one of the city’s most rewarding alpine trails.
1. Charyn Canyon
Charyn Canyon is often compared to the Grand Canyon, and while it’s smaller in scale, it’s still incredibly impressive. It is actually called “the Grand Canyon of Central Asia”. The red rock formations and deep valleys create a surreal, almost otherworldly landscape, and despite being a tourist location, it was a highlight for me.
Most tours take you down into the canyon, where you can walk through narrow rock formations known as the “Valley of Castles”, but there is also a panoramic trail which overlooks the canyon and was much less crowded.
It’s hot, exposed, and very dry in summer, so it’s best visited early in the day. I had caught a glimpse of this canyon on the way from Karakol and was excited to see it up close, which did not disappoint.
2. Black Canyon
The Black Canyon is one of the most striking stops on day trips from Almaty, known for its deep, dramatic rock formations and sweeping views across rugged terrain. It couldn’t be any more opposite to Charyn Canyon, and the contrast is what I loved, despite them being so close to each other.
Unlike the turquoise lakes of Kolsai and Kaindy, the canyon feels darker and more raw, with steep cliffs carved over time into layered rock faces.
This was included in the tour as a short stop compared to the Charyn Canyon, where we had 3 hours to explore. But even a brief visit is enough to appreciate the scale and atmosphere of the landscape.
Almaty is Central Asia’s skiing capital, and Shymbulak Ski Resort is its flagship resort.
Complete beginners can book a guided ski day at the resort, with an instructor, equipment, and city transfers included.
Shymbulak is also the starting point for one of the region’s best hikes: Bogbanovisch Glacier and Oktyabrskaya cave hike. From the resort, you take a 4 km round-trip climb to around 3,200 m, passing a glacier and striking ice formations. It’s a full-day adventure from Almaty, yet a demanding one (the operator rules out anyone with low fitness or heart problems).
3. Kolsai Lake & Kandai Lake
These lakes are located close to each other and are often what pops up if you Google images of Kazakhstan or Almaty. Due to a poorly organised tour, I only got to visit Kolsai Lake and sadly missed out on visiting nearby Kaindy Lake.
These are two of Kazakhstan’s most beautiful natural attractions, and Kolsai reminded me of Norway, New Zealand or even Canada in some ways. There is a beautiful boardwalk around the lake, but since this is a very touristy area, it is hard to find much peace and calm.
Kolsai Lake is a peaceful alpine lake surrounded by forests and mountains, while Kaindy Lake is said to be famous for its submerged forest, with tree trunks rising from its striking turquoise waters.
Something I wish I could have seen firsthand. Together, they offer some of the most spectacular scenery in the region and are a must-visit from Almaty.
My tour experience & recommendation
I chose the 2-day lakes and canyons tour after hearing it offered more time at each stop and an overnight stay in a yurt, which sounded like a great experience. The tour cost Approximate — rates updated daily, with an additional Approximate — rates updated daily for the yurt.
However, once on the trip, the itinerary felt quite unstructured. After a rushed visit to Charyn Canyon, Black Canyon, and Kolsai Lake, the group was split, and while the 1-day tour continued on to additional activities, we were taken to a restaurant where we were told we would spend the afternoon before heading to the yurt.
There was limited clarity on the schedule and a significant amount of downtime that hadn’t been expected. After reassessing the plan, I decided to return to Almaty rather than continue with the overnight portion of the tour. If I were to do this again, I would certainly do the 1-day tour and use the second day to visit another attraction on my bucket list.
This Charyn Canyon, Kolsai and Kaindy Lakes day trip covers the same canyon-and-lakes route in a single day, but also includes Kaindy Lake and its famous submerged forest – which my 2-day tour never reached.
It’s a long day, but you skip the slow afternoon and overnight yurt stay.
Where to eat (and what dishes to try)
When spending the day exploring, I usually grabbed a coffee and some breakfast from Nedelka, a few samsa (like a samosa) from street vendors and then dinner later on. I went to the same cafe each morning since I loved the vibe, the coffee and the prices were fair.
As I have mentioned, Almaty is more expensive for certain things than cities like Tashkent or Samarkand, but certainly not at European prices.
You can easily get breakfast and a coffee for around Approximate — rates updated daily, a samsa for Approximate — rates updated daily and dinner for under Approximate — rates updated daily.
Almaty is very developed, modern and hip, so no matter what cuisine you want, you will find it here. I was craving an Indian curry one day and enjoyed a delicious meal for around Approximate — rates updated daily.
My favourite spots:
- Nedelka: This is a chain of cafes that serve great coffee, breakfast, brunch and dinner. I particularly loved visiting here in the mornings before setting off on an adventure. They can be found all around the city.
- Navat is also a chain, which I had heard about from other travellers. It is common around Central Asia, and I wish I had visited sooner because it was incredible. It was slightly pricey, but the menu was one of the largest I have ever seen – it was like a novel. The decor is stunning, and you really feel like you are in Central Asia when dining here.
Some other well-rated options include:
- The Noodles – for brunch
- Manga Japanese Restaurant – for yummy Japanese dishes
- Restaurant Sandyq – for traditional Kazakh dishes
Best time to visit
The best time to visit Almaty is May to June and September, when the weather is warm, skies are clear, and outdoor conditions are ideal for exploring both the city and surrounding mountains.
I visited in May, which was perfect for hiking, day trips, and enjoying the city’s green parks in full bloom. The mountains still had snow-capped peaks, while the city itself felt fresh, vibrant, and not too crowded. Unlike parts of Uzbekistan, the weather was warm but not uncomfortable, which I loved, and you could always find shade in one of the many beautiful parks around the city.
Summer (July–August) is definitely hotter and busier, especially for popular excursions, while winter is very cold but ideal if you’re interested in skiing in the nearby resorts or going ice skating.
💎 Editor’s pick: If you’re visiting in winter, you’d want to spend a day at Shymbulak Ski Resort, the country’s premier ski area, or go ice skating at the Medeu rink, the world’s highest open-air, Olympic-sized skating stadium.
Tips & advice
A few things I would advise when visiting Almaty:
- Do the 1-day canyon and lakes tour rather than the 2-day, as it wastes a lot of time – shop around and make sure to read reviews
- The Green Bazaar is closed on Mondays – I made this mistake and had to return on a different day
- Utilise the metro to get around, since Yandex is pricier here
- Ladies might be excited to know that beauty treatments and nails, etc are very high quality in Almaty and very affordable – I treated myself to a manicure before I returned home to attend a wedding.
- Wear comfortable shoes; you will be doing a lot of walking to explore Almaty and the surrounding areas. Arbat Street is a pedestrian street with art, music and shops. It is well worth visiting just for the vibe, which is best in the evening.
Where to next?
Given Almaty’s strategic location, visiting either Bishkek or Karakol is an ideal option. There is one direct bus from Almaty to Karakol per day, but several options to Bishkek.
However, if you plan it right, I would suggest Karakol since this crossing is more rural and scenic than the other. Karakol is a great base for hiking, doing day trips and enjoying some downtime too, so this could be a great follow-on destination from Almaty.
