Koh Tao. Turtle Island. A long-time favourite of scuba divers and backpackers, this tiny Thai island has a growing party scene that is starting to get more buzz than Koh Phangan — but which somehow coexists with 6 am dive boat departures.
Don’t let its small size fool you: Koh Tao boasts a wealth of adventures for different types of travellers. Most arrive planning to stay a few days, and some are still here weeks later.
I had the pleasure of living on Koh Tao for close to a year, moving from an adventure-seeking backpacker to a local expat and beach bum, and eventually attempting a Divemaster certification. This in-depth guide covers what I learned from a year on Koh Tao: where to dive, where to party, and mistakes to avoid.
During my first backpacking adventure to Thailand, which cemented me as someone who is both highly impulsive and not to be trusted with a tax return, I was extremely lucky to meet one of my closest friends who was living in Thailand. It is undoubtedly that friendship which brought me to the island I would call home for the better part of a year.
See Koh Tao from above on this private road trip through 8 viewpoints
Book this boat trip to snorkel 5 spots around Koh Tao (+ a short hike on Nang Yuan)
Koh Tao: what to expect
Koh Tao is both a massive backpacker hot spot that is turning into a party island and an absolute mecca for diving due to the accessibility and low cost of dive training here. It brings in a young, transient, and adventurous crowd, often here for the thrill of the jungle parties as much as the adventure of slipping beneath the ocean.
My first impression of Koh Tao as a traveller was the same as anyone else: utter confusion and being overwhelmed while disembarking the ferry at Mae Haad pier due to the disorganized chaos! Stepping out of the terminal into a crowd of clueless tourists, you’re greeted by a surge of vendors shouting “Taxi!” “Motorbike!” trying to get business, all while nobody knows exactly where to go.
The pier is along a narrow soi that dumps everyone onto one of the two main roads through Mae Haad, and you’ll find this area congested with taxis and motorbikes during a ferry arrival. It’s basically island rush hour.
I made my way through the crowd towards the 7/11, where my friend was waiting with a smile on her scooter. She told me to hop on and we were off, zipping through the traffic and through back roads, by a gleaming temple and palm trees under the Thai sun.
The island greets you with pure unbridled chaos that only Thailand can deliver, but don’t let this dissuade you. The island’s serene sunsets, quaint beaches, lush jungle, lively nightlife and the adventures that await you make it all worth it, and let’s face it, this chaos is part of the journey.
I didn’t know it then, but this tiny island would eventually become my home, a place where I’d have countless adventures, some misadventures and lifelong memories.
Don’t come expecting deep immersion in Thai culture, though. Koh Tao boasts an eclectic mix of international travellers, native Thai islanders and Burmese workers, giving it a somewhat unique characteristic. Being the centre of the dive community, it doesn’t feel or look like the rest of Thailand.
If anything, my Thai friends were surprised by the overwhelming number of Farang here when they visited. I’d place the overall experience in Koh Tao somewhere in the category of Siargao or maybe Bali (but less crowded, and with fewer nomads/influencers) and much, much, much smaller. It’s this strange hodgepodge mix that gives the island its character!
Note on safety
Let me just quickly address its reputation: despite what you might have seen online, the island is completely safe. I have never had any problems while living, diving and partying there. There is some dark history that is very searchable, but this is not the Koh Tao I, or any traveller I have met has experienced. Quite the opposite: Koh Tao becomes a lot of travellers’ favourite destination on their journey.
How long to stay?
I would aim to spend 5-7 days in Koh Tao… at least. That’s about enough time to take your Open Water or AOW course, which takes about 3 days, and to get through the weekly party rotation. But… most travellers end up spending more time than they mean to in Koh Tao!
How to get to Koh Tao
From Bangkok: Hop on a bus to Chumphon for the ferry to Koh Tao. I recommend the operator Lomprayah, which has an office next to Khao San Road. You can also buy tickets online using 12Go. Bus departures are from Thanon Bowon Niwet in front of Wat Bowoooniwetwiharn. The ride is about 8 hours, with a midway break to eat at a food court.
The bus will take you all the way to Chumphon (or if you’re lucky, you disembark in the middle of the night at the side of the road to hop in a pick up truck!). You’ll then take a ferry from Thung Makham Noi Pier in Chumphon straight to Koh Tao.
You’ll disembark at the Mae Haad pier, which is near the two main streets packed with restaurants, motorbike shops, hostels and dive centres. Your accommodations will sometimes have a driver or taxi waiting for you – contact them after booking to find out if that’s a possibility.
You’ll eventually want to get set up with a motorbike as there is no public transit and taxis can get quite expensive, but more on that later.
From the southern islands (Krabi / Phi Phi / Phuket): Take a van or bus across the mainland to Surat Thani (Donsak Pier). Catch the ferry that stops in Koh Samui and Koh Phangan before arriving at Koh Tao. Combination tickets are bookable on 12Go.
Where to stay in Koh Tao
Koh Tao is small enough to ride across in under an hour. Most of the action concentrates on its west coast though: Mae Haad is the port town, a little cluttered with dive shops and convenience stores, but a practical base and quieter at night.
Sairee is the long beach just north of it, which is the social and nightlife hub. A bit inland, in Sairee village, is where most of the party hostels are located. Connecting both of them is the Walking street, which is just above the beach and is packed with restaurants, nightlife and dive centres!
For a more relaxed vibe, you can check out Chalok which is quieter than Sairee, with a more private bay and access to resorts and beach restaurants.
Beyond these three areas, things quickly get a little more relaxed and more spread out. At the beaches in the east and south, like Tanote Bay, Aow Leuk and Hin Wong, you can go swimming and snorkelling away from the crowds at Sairee.
There is an overwhelming amount of choice for accommodations in Koh Tao, from cheap party hostels to premium resorts — and everything in between. The following are places I’d point a friend to, most of which I’ve either stayed or simply hung out in — in between having mostly my own place on the island.
Despite its abundance of choice, things can get absolutely booked out during high season, especially the hostels, which can leave people scrambling for any bed that night! It pays to plan ahead a bit. Also keep in mind location, your comfort driving your scooter (especially at night), your distance from the Sairee nightlife and the overall vibe — some places are chill and quiet, others rage well into the evening.
Party hostels
Okay, this is mainly for the younger backpackers, and it’s why you’re (probably) in Koh Tao. Let’s face it, everyone is here to meet people!
I actually didn’t stay in any hostels in Koh Tao, but some of my backpacking friends did – and I’ve dropped by for the events, friends DJing or amenities. That means I can’t comment on what the dorms are like (always check the reviews!), but the following hostels are some of the first to consider.
1. Rev’s (Revolution Koh Tao) – wildest party atmosphere
Your quintessential party hostel, jokingly referred to as a British Party hostel. This is hands down the wildest hostel on the island and a guaranteed good time with late nights. They are known for having a large jungle party pre-party that spills into the streets and free flow liquor some nights, with blaring music and a social vibe (which ruined a few nights at a resort for me!). If you’re looking to get a solid sleep and an early start, this probably is not the place for you.
NOMADS is another good option if you want a party built around events. They bring in DJs and have run an open deck night, and it’s a short walk from Choppers and the other Sairee hostels. It’s a better fit if you want a planned social calendar and a central base rather than a free-for-all.
2. SLUMBER Party – beachside parties
For a completely different vibe, this beach hostel is a collection of bungalows that have their main bar on the beach. Perfect to set up for a sunset with a DJ right on Sairee beach with an open air hangout space and beach vibes. Its also close to both Rev’s and Nomads!
3. Escobar Hostel (new entrant!) – a more laid-back party scene
The same people who brought you the Escobar jungle party have opened a new beach hostel on Koh Tao, with resort-level amenities. Unlike the previous hostels in Sairee, Escobar is located in the south of the island. While this opened up after I left the island, travellers and partygoers should at least consider it due to the streamlined transport to the jungle party.
Social hostels
Koh Tao has a bunch of social hostels as well that are great for meeting people and have events but don’t quite throw the large parties (as much!), meaning you can actually get some sleep. Still lively and with food and drinks, these are great places to kick it, but not hosting the party.
1. Echo Hostel
The hostel is on the far side of Mae Haad which is much quieter at night, and has chill vibes all round, as well as an incorporated SSI dive school. There are two pool tables in the roof top common area, and a seriously tasty burmese/thai/western menu that is aggressively affordable.
2. Islander Hostel & Dive School
Found in Mae Haad itself, this hostel has a large common space that holds a lot of events- like trivia night, music nights, and a pool table. Well-located in Mae Haad and home to Finsanity Dive School, it’s totally walkable from the pier and has overall funky vibes.
This is located about the midpoint of Sairee walking street, featuring chic posh-tel style amenities, with a large ground level hang out and social area. What I am most familiar with is the rooftop pool and bar – which as an outsider I’ve spent my fair share of time at. It also has private rooms and the overall vibe is a bit more upscale.
Hotels and resorts
Sometimes you do have to treat yourself, even when you live in paradise. While I’m mostly a budget traveler, I can suggest two mid-budget resorts I stayed at on the island.
I’ve both stayed at this resort and dove with Roctopus, which is located inside. The resort is well maintained, and has a pool located right by the ocean. It’s very close to the party hostel Rev’s, and it can be a little more lively depending where your room is.
This brand new resort is my favourite place I’ve stayed: featuring private bungalows rising out of the jungle, just up from Sairee village, it boasts a large dining room and bar, with a newly opened pool. Perfect for couples, or travellers needing private accommodation. I had a spectacular time here.
Things to do on Koh Tao
Koh Tao is jam-packed with adventure sports, day activities, parties, nightlife, and of course, scuba diving. You’ll never run out of anything to do: the problem will be fitting it all in!
Scuba Diving
Koh Tao is the epicenter of diving and dive training in Thailand. There are about 85 dive schools and it’s one of the most affordable places globally to go diving and get your certifications.
The dive schools are variously associated with three scuba certification agencies: PADI, SSI, and RAID. While these vary slightly, they are basically interchangeable for the lower lever certifications. For absolute beginners I’d look into getting your Open Water certification – it will go over the fundamentals of diving, walk you through your equipment, get your feet wet in a controlled pool dive, and then take you out into the ocean.
How to choose a dive school
This is honestly a highly personalized choice, and I am the first to admit my bias, having friends within the industry and having worked at different schools. Some schools I recommend looking into are Master Divers, Big Blue, and Roctopus, but there are numerous others.
At the end of the day, you want to find a school that you vibe with and want to hang out with. Other things to consider are the size of the dive boats, how many they have, and the overall size of the school. I’d walk around, talk to a few, feel out the vibe, take note of the overall prices and do what’s right for you.
Favourite dive sites
The ‘best’ dive sites are somewhat subjective. For instance, I personally tend to like deeper water dives with more sealife, or just straight up wreck diving. However, when I considered my own favourites, and after bouncing this question off a few diving friends, several dive sites clearly stand out.
1. Sail Rock
Regarded as one of the best dive sites in the Gulf of Thailand, Sail Rock is well worth the trek out from Koh Tao. This isolated pinnacle rises from depths of around 40 metres, with its peak piercing up to 8 metres above the ocean’s surface. This site is best for experienced, advanced divers due to the depths required to fully experience everything.
Getting there is an adventure in itself. Sail Rock is a full-day trip offered by select dive schools, with several hours spent travelling across the ocean to its location between Koh Tao and Koh Phangan.
At around Approximate — rates updated daily, it’s a bigger commitment in both time and money than your typical dive, but well worth it. Just make sure you stock up on some Changs for the ride back.
Underwater there’s plenty to explore. Its remote location makes Sail Rock a magnet for a wide variety of marine life. Divers frequently encounter barracudas, batfishes, and if you’re lucky….. whale sharks! The site’s most prominent feature is the Chimney, a vertical swim-through that runs diagonally down 18 metres.
If you’re spending time on Koh Tao, this is one trip worth making.
2. Chumpon Pinnacle
Chumphon Pinnacle is a massive underwater rock formation that plunges to around 35 metres. With great visibility and an abundance of fish and marine life, it’s an incredible dive for both Open Water and Advanced Open Water divers.
This is my favourite dive site on Koh Tao, and the place where I did my first ocean dive.
Located offshore in the open ocean, the journey itself is part of the experience. As a novice diver, there was something exhilarating about leaving the island behind and heading out into the deep blue to arrive at an endless expanse of ocean.
My first time descending beneath the waves I was immersed in a hidden world beneath the surface: towering rock formations, schools of fish, sea anemones, and colours in every direction and I realized I was hooked. Lost in this world, I almost missed it. While intensely looking at some urchins on the seafloor, my DM banged my tank, and pointed up… and there it was, a giant 5 meter long whale shark!
On my first ocean dive! I couldn’t believe it – people had been waiting months to see one. And here I am on my first ocean dive ever, and I get to experience this. This is the kind of thing that stays with you long after you’ve surfaced.
Chumphon Pinnacle holds a special place for me because of this, and while I can’t guarantee you’ll be as lucky, it’s one of the sites I’d highly recommend checking out.
3. Koh Tao Wreck Diving: HTMS Sattakut
There are three wreck dives located in Koh Tao, each offering a unique diving experience: the HTMS Sattakut, HTMS Suphairin, and HTMS Hanhak Sattru. You’ll pretty much need your advanced so you can go deep enough to get the full experience.
The undisputed king of Koh Tao wreck diving is the HTMS Sattakut. A former US Navy vessel dating back to the Second World War, the ship was later transferred to the Royal Thai Navy before being deliberately sunk in 2011 to create an artificial reef and dive site.
Today, the Sattakut is reached from a minimum depth of 18m down to a max depth of 32 metres. The ship’s imposing structure, including its conning tower and impressive Bofors cannons, provides plenty to explore.
What I remember most about the Sattakut isn’t its history or even its impressive structure. It’s the feeling of seeing it for the first time.
On my first dive here, the visibility was a little low. As I descended, the outline of the ship slowly emerged from the depths, its silhouette materialising like a ghost out of the blue. An apparition rising out of the depths, making the wreck hauntingly beautiful and giving it an eerie, otherworldly character.
For anyone interested in trying a wreck dive, the HTMS Sattakut is an absolute must when visiting Koh Tao.
Snorkelling
Of course there are also some key snorkeling spots in Koh Tao if you don’t dive (even though you should!). There are many places you can rent a snorkel and mask at the various beaches, with most beach bars offering affordable daily rentals right at the beach.
- Hin Wong: here you can snorkel with blacktip baby sharks that come right into the shallows.
- Tanote Bay: if you wade in from the shore, and swim out a bit, you can swim into a massive, swimming school of scad fish that live here all the time.
- Mae Haad: Mae Haad has a very shallow shipwreck located in the south west, in front of Sensi Paradise Resort. It’s extremely accessible from the beach.
Editor’s note: While it’s easy to organize some snorkelling by yourself, if you want the full buffet of all the best snorkelling spots then this full-day snorkelling boat trip is still highly worth it. You’ll also get to visit Koh Nangyuan’s famous viewpoint, and it includes lunch on board.
The (bi-)weekly parties
The party scene has grown so much it has begun to eclipse the dive scene. While you can go out for drinks any night, specific party events operate on a weekly or bi weekly schedule (during high season).
There are always friendly promoters out in Sairee village and signage everywhere keeping you in the loop on these parties. You won’t be able to escape people trying to invite you! Your hostel and accommodation will also likely resell tickets.
ESCOBAR: This is the giant jungle party in Koh Tao, held up in the mountains and is a huge 5 stage all night event and the wildest party in Koh Tao. Each stage will have different music and vibes, and you will take a labyrinth of stairs through the grounds to explore each one. To get there, hop in one of the many pick up taxis in Sairee village, found around the 7/11.
LEO BEACH (LBMF) – Another giant beach party taking place near Sai Nuan beach. This party hosts two stages on the beach, and a huge bar between them, featuring resident Koh Tao DJs and a mix of music. I personally gravitate towards the psytrance stage over the main stage – perhaps a sign I’ve been in Thailand for too long. This event is a bit more difficult to get to, and plenty of party goers ride their scooters in.
You have to traverse the island, into Chalok and take a winding, steep mountain road, past Secret bar all the way to the end of the road — this is not beginner friendly! Also, make sure you stay off to the side as the taxi-trucks frequently come over into the opposing lane. The grounds are well built, and you’ll have no problem finding parking, but I recommend getting there earlier as opposed to later.
Koh Tao Pub Crawl: This is the infamous pub crawl on Koh Tao, meeting multiple times a week at Choppers sports bar. I’ve seen groups of 250+, and sometimes they’ll run 2 groups in the same night. They’ll march you through a range of bars in Sairee beach, and I’ll leave it a surprise where they take you. The Best part? You get a Koh Tao bar crawl singlet to keep and wear around your trip.
AC Pool Party: A giant pool party at AC Bar & Beach Club, where they have a range of DJs on their mainstage, back area and of course, everyone swimming in the pool! This used to be free, but is now a paid event. Lots of fun and worth checking out, and easily accessible in Sairiee.
Wild N Wavy Boat Party! The boat party is back on Koh Tao! Cruise around, swim and dance on a boat all afternoon into the evening. Leaves from CK hostel, and makes periodic stops to swim.
Sunday night with MILOKO at Bambu: A Latin night, where local group MILOKO puts on a live music event from about 7-10 every Sunday at Bambu bar on the far side of Mae Haad. Not to be missed, and the lively Spanish crowd absolutely loves MILOKO!
Hii Festival: taking over Big Rock Rasta bar, there is the new Hii Festival, from the same people that organize the Waterfall party in Koh Phangan. It has 2 stages, set high in the mountains next to Secret Bar, with some stunning views.
They also have a Muay Thai ring where you can box other party goers and where Muay Thai demonstrations are done. This is a newer event that I haven’t been to, but I’ve had sundown cocktails here and was impressed by the place. It’s quite a way away from Sairee, so you’ll need to take a taxi in and back if you don’t want to ride your scooter up and past Secret Bar.
Secret Party: This is a long-running party on Koh Tao that’s regularly promoted, but also the only one that I never attended during my time on the island (surprisingly!). So this one’s for you to figure out by yourself.
Bars & Nightlife
Beyond the ticketed parties, there is also a massive bar scene in Koh Tao. The following tend to be a little more full when the parties aren’t happening, and you’ll get more of the local divers out for nights here. Hangout like a local!
One of the best ways to enjoy a drink is with a glorious sunset. Perhaps the two best spots are Secret Bar and Sairee Beach, where I would usually be around the side of Fizz Bar and Smoking Dead. Exotic Hive, View Bar and Love Koh Tao are great runner-ups.
There is a saying in Koh Tao a local taught me: that you stay in Koh Tao till you get a bad sunset, then it’s time to leave.
Ban’s Fishbowl Bar: Ban’s Restaurant transforms at night into a full blown night club, right off Saire Beach. There are live bands and DJs nightly and the place is sure to get packed. Grab yourself a bucket and hit the dance floor!
The Local: This local favourite has a big open space and stage for live music. It often has events, such as the weekly Drinks Exchange (usually on Mondays) where drink prices fluctuate like in a stock market. On other nights there are live musical acts, bands, DJs, trivia nights and a whole lot of others!
Choppers Sport Bar: The sports bar in KT is known to open at random times when there are major international sports events outside of their hours. It has 2 levels, with massive TV screens on the downstairs floor, and an upstairs that holds KT trivia and an insane open mic night.
Secret Bar: This is the best sunset viewpoint in all of KT, found up from Chalok, up the same road to get to Leo Beach. Come early as it gets packed thanks to its Bali-like views. erched up in the mountains you look out over the water facing west (and a little south). The sun sets right over the horizon over the elevated deck, and turns the sky pink and purple.
AC Pool Bar: yes, the same bar that holds the AC pool party, but it also operates as a nightclub in the smaller back stage and has multiple pool tables that are somehow always busy. Solid prices for Chang and Leo and the open air bar has nightly fireshows right off Saire beach.
LEOEvolution: The THAI bar! Open late, the crowd doesn’t even arrive till after Fishbowl closes, so after 1 am. A completely different experience than every other bar on the island — more like a Thai nightclub, with giant LED screens, screaming music and sometimes a live band. Night goes late and is sure to get weird here – I highly, highly recommend checking it out.
Of course, when you stay longer on the island you’ll discover many more great bars and hangout spots. But the above would be my starter kit for anyone diving into Koh Tao’s bar scene!
Hikes & viewpoints
Koh Tao isn’t just all parties and diving. There are a select number of small hikes and viewpoints scattered throughout the island. I made a point of getting to as many of the more obscure viewpoints, such as Grape, Mango, Tanoe Peak and Max mountain.
The go-to hike everyone does is the John-Suwan view point, which is pretty much at the end of the main road. Park your bike, head through the resort and up the view point.
You have to pay to park here, but it’s worth it. The viewpoint takes you right up, with a bunch of ropes to help guide you.
It’s a little short, about 25 minutes to get to the top, but there are plenty of beaches nearby to hang out on after.
Talking of viewpoints, Koh Tao has plenty more worth seeing. This private road trip covers 8 of them, from Tanote Peak to John-Suwan, with hotel pickup and a stop at Freedom Beach.
Other things to do
Beyond the diving community, you will find a robust yoga community, Muay Thai gyms, and more. If you’re staying on the island a bit longer, there are also some more local sports and activities that can keep you entertained.
Muay Thai
If you’re in Thailand, highly recommend spending the Baht and taking at least a session in Muay Thai. KT boasts multiple muay thai gyms to train at during your stay, including Monsoon gym, Pankom Muay Thai, Island Muay Thai and Koh Tao Muay Thai.
I was training with Monsoon gym as I could walk from my apartment, and they are located on the main road, have an ice bath, and have an attached free weight gym as well.
Health & wellness
Black Tip Coworking space was one of the places I went to get away and relax to do an ice bath and sauna session in the jungle. There is also a calisthenic workout space, and they’ve been adding to the facility!
This was one of my happy places on the island, which I infrequently shared with people. Some other places to hit a sweat are Betty Swollox; Woods Beach Fitness; and KT Bootcamp to stay fit while you’re on your island adventure.
Game zone
La Hacienda is a movie theater and game zone. There’s also this small mini putt course, a Sports and Paddle club, and a Shooting Range should you feel like having some target practice.
Where to eat in Koh Tao
There is an endless supply of restaurants on KT, from budget-friendly local Thai food (a staple for divers) to Western food and upscale seafood joints.
It’s not difficult to find familiar Western food like pizza and burgers just by checking the map and ratings around you — though I’ll give a quick shoutout to Pizzeria du Claudio and, being from Montreal, I’m an absolute sucker for Mingle Bagels! What follows in more detail are some of the more local Thai places that stood out to me.
Local Thai food & restaurants
Thai is what I ate all the time on the island, and let’s face it, you didn’t come halfway around the world to eat western food. If you’re on a budget, or staying for a while and want to watch your money, check out these local favourites.
- $ EK Thunder: Tucked into a corner down the same soi at Chopper’s is one of, if not the best budget food places. The owner sometimes keeps odd hours and is sometimes closed. She’s known for her yellow rice and chicken, which frequently runs out early in the day. Be there at the right time and this little place is awesome. She has a few simple tables inside, so you might have to sit with someone new. Crispy Pork and Yellow Rice, Pork Leg and rice, Chicken Rice are fan favourites.
- $ 995 Duck: Probably the most popular restaurant on the island, it’s always full and frequently a line up. It’s a no frills, open kitchen that is reminiscent of places I’ve eaten in Bangkok. They serve a variety of duck dishes, like duck noodle soup, duck with rice. I go for the spicy noodle soup every time.
- $ Yangs Thai food: is a large thai food kitchen, serving massive portions for extremely budget friendly travelers, with large thai dishes ranging 80-100 baht, and they have a massive selection of smoothies as well. I used this place when bulking up for Mauy Thai. Highly recommend the shakes.
- $ Mama Piyawan: Found beside the 7/11 on the main road towards Sairee village, Mama Piyana is a no frills, budget friendly local haunt, offering authentic, affordable Thai dishes that are cooked to order, with dishes ranging 50-80 Baht. One of my personal favourites dishes was the Thai stuffed omelet.
- $ Legend Thai: Offering Thai and Burmese cuisine on Lotus walking street, this hidden gem offers the best (and most affordable) Khao Soi on the island, and is so popular it sometimes runs out!
- Mookrata: There are 3 options on the island. The more budget-friendly, authentic, and rustic feel is Koh Ta Buffet BBQ. You’ll be sitting on plastic chairs and cooking over fired charcoal and it is an incredible value coming under 300 baht for all you can eat. I’ve also been to Sairee Hotpot right in Saire village, which is a bit more accessible.
Contemporary dining
For a bit of a more upscale and special dining experience, these spots which I have eaten at offer something a step up from the local Thai food, offering beachfront views, and a little something special for a night out.
- Barracuda: Offering more casual contemporary dining, Barracuda specializes in seafood, as the name suggests, alongside Thai cuisine and select Western favourites. The restaurant has two locations on Koh Tao: Barracuda Rooftop in Sairee and Barracuda Beach in Chalok.
My favourite is the latter, which has open-air, beachfront dining and a stunning view of Chalok Bay. It’s an excellent spot for a sunset dinner or a romantic date night. - The Whitening: an open-air, beachfront restaurant with a chic feel, and its all-white aesthetic and stylish décor make it an ideal spot for a sunset dinner. The menu features international cuisine, premium grilled meats, catch of the day and, my personal favourite, fresh local oysters from the Gulf of Thailand.
- Chef’s Table by Mama: This unique Thai dining experience was introduced to me as a hidden gem – and I’ve experienced nothing else like it in Koh Tao. It’s a traditional chef’s table experience, offering an intimate, exclusive meal prepared by chef Mama for a curated Thai dining experience.
While the dishes are refined the setting is casual, with meals served in an open air venue on Sairee Beach with typical Thai triangle cushions. Everything is meant to be shared, and you can expect authentic Thai flavours. Reservation required.
Some great hidden cafes
There is an endless supply of cafes to get your caffeine fix on throughout Koh Tao, I wanted to provide some of the places I discovered tucked away on the island:
- Olive Hideout: Go here for your iced coffees, matcha, smoothie bowls and the like — in a lovely green space amid the jungle. Branding itself as a CAFE & Aperitivo, it’s more of a hybrid cafe, and funnily enough I’ve been to an event there and thought it was a full cocktail bar. It’s completely hidden down some back roads up from Sairee village.
- Tropico: I absolutely love this place for the views and friendly staff, looking southwest over Sairee Beach offering a stunning sweeping view of the ocean and Koh Tao. The service is high touch and attentive, you won’t be disappointed.
General pointers for Koh Tao
Bike rental
The transportation around the island is not the best, and the fees from the taxis are quite steep and can build up quickly. The easiest way to get around the island is renting a motorbike from the many shops on the island.
However, this is not really the place to learn. The roads can be steep, winding and very, very busy at certain points. Accidents, while not reported, are extremely common here, and the biggest danger isn’t your skill, it’s someone else on the road who can’t handle it.
I recommend getting something like a small Honda Scoopy or a Honda Click 125 cc scooter, which is just twist and go (no gear shifting involved). It’s really not worth your money to rent a 160 cc dirt bike.
You have two options for the deposit: you can leave about 5000 baht, or you can leave your passport.
Personally I just deposit my passport – I swear it’s safer with them than with me. I’ve also seen people be scrutinized more for “damages” with cash than passports.
When you get your scooter, take a thorough video of the condition of the bike, point out any damage, scratches and any flaws, then test the lights and horn. A common scam is the renter trying to charge large sums of Baht for damage to the bike that wasn’t there. I personally have had no problems, but I’ve seen people raked over the coals in Koh Tao.
You can also somewhat negotiate the fee per day, so feel free to shop around. The bikes will usually come with little gas in them, so head to the gas station and fill your tank.
Also: Wear your helmet! The police on KT are actively enforcing helmet laws and regularly set up a roadblock by the Wat on the main road. Not wearing a helmet gives them cause to pull you over and then they can get you for a lack of an international driver’s permit (if they want to).
Cash & ATMs
There are plenty of ATMs and banks on the island. Each one will charge you Approximate — rates updated daily to access your money with the usual withdrawal limit (I believe around 20,000 baht).
This is just the cost of being a tourist in Thailand.
If things go sideways: healthcare on Koh Tao
There are plenty of pharmacies, clinics (including dive medicine) and a hospital on Koh Tao, including a decompression chamber. If anything major happens, you will be taken by speedboat to Koh Samui and taken to one of the major private hospitals there.
I cannot stress this enough: you need travel insurance. If you get into something serious and need to be lifted by speedboat to Koh Samui, let me tell you, it’s not cheap if you’re uninsured
! (Note that scuba diving is not always included by default in travel insurance coverage, though. Check your policy.)
Island dogs
There are plenty of friendly island dogs found on Sariee beach, and most, if not all, have owners and collars and just get to hang out on the beach all day. As far as I am aware, there is no rabies on the island (or so I’ve been told), and these dogs generally all have their shots. The dogs are friendly in a Thai Dog sort of way; they are extremely independent and not as warm as Western dogs, but they might like some pets before moving on.
I seriously hope that you consider visiting the place I called home for a bit: this small, crazy island in the Gulf of Thailand that will give you some of the best memories of your life.
Most travellers reach the island through Bangkok, so if you’re still planning that leg, here’s our insider itinerary for 2, 3, or 4 days in the city. For a complete change of scene, visit Khao Sok National Park, a remote rainforest older than the Amazon with floating bungalows on the lake or make your way to Krabi for more island-hopping, beaches, and hikes.
