The Salento area of Puglia, in Southern Italy, is getting increasingly well known for the warm hospitality of its people, a slow relaxed pace of life and a cuisine based on the freshest produce and seafood, bursting with flavour and accompanied by excellent olive oil and seriously good wine, particularly the reds. A long coastline with crystalline water (and some of the best beaches in Italy) and lots of enchanting small towns with beautiful architecture add to the reasons why you should visit and explain its frequent appearance in the international travel press.
The first luxury hotels to spring up in the area were predominantly Masserie, historic farm or manor houses immersed in Nature and restored with rustic yet elegant charm – usually offering a restaurant serving traditional dishes, seclusion, a pool or pools and often spa or retreat facilities. While I am a fan of these in the high summer months, when beaches are crowded and towns can be chaotic, I think Puglia has a lot to offer year-round, and you experience much more of the area using a small town as a base. For short breaks you can even get away with not renting a car. Whereas some seaside towns can be too quiet in winter, pick the right town, preferably near the coast, and you will have a good choice of restaurants and cafes open all year as well as beautiful streets to wander around and a main square or squares where you can have a drink or snack and people watch to your hearts content.
Two of my favourites are Nardò and Galatina, both within easy reach of Lecce, the capital of the area, and a selection of beaches for the warmer months. Both have historic centres with spectacular churches and grand palazzi – some of which have been turned into Boutique Hotels, Bed and Breakfasts or self-catering accommodation. If you are looking for a classic 5* luxury hotel with spa and restaurant you might like Palazzo Tafuri, in Nardò, but I am definitely a fan of beautiful surroundings, thoughtful touches, personal service but a more relaxed and, for me, a more relaxing experience. Formal hospitality training does not necessarily produce the perfect host or guest stay and there is a lot to be said for an approach that relies on taking the time to work out or intuitively anticipate what each guest wants or needs and on a host who goes the extra mile and provides what they would like if they were a guest rather than a standard offering.
Nardò House has 5 bedroom suites which can be booked separately or arranged as self-catering apartments, and a lushly planted roof terrace with spectacular views over the historic centre of Nardò – curling up on the comfortable seating with a bottle of wine and nibbles and watching the sun set over the church of San Domenico is an unmissable experience. Other than having exquisite taste (every corner of the Palazzo is a delight), Vanessa Miner, who owns and runs the Palazzo is the perfect host and a font of information about the local area and where to eat, drink and shop. She has been known to arrange dinner parties to introduce guests who are property hunting in the area to other locals, or organise on-site cooking classes, massages or anything else guests might require.
Events are a particular speciality, with Vanessa applying the same creativity and attention to detail used in the restoration of the Palazzo to making sure everything is perfect and runs smoothly on the day. One of the apartments is completely wheelchair accessible and there is a lift between floors and up to the roof terrace, making the palazzo ideal for multi-generational family groups. There is plenty of accommodation in the surrounding area for extra guests – recent events included a wedding reception for 100 guests on the roof terrace, but smaller drinks parties or sit-down dinners can also be arranged.
Solo travellers are very much welcomed and looked after and there will be a series of special short breaks for solo women or female friends in October and November 2026 but also March and April 2027.
The Centro storico, or historic centre, of Galatina is larger and grander than Nardò, though Nardò has a larger population as it extends out to a long stretch of coastline (10 minutes’ drive from town). If you are visiting Galatina do visit the 14th century Basilica di Santa Caterina D’Alessandria with walls, vaults and pillars completely covered in exquisite frescoes.
Recently opened, almost opposite the Basilica is Palazzo Galluccio, a luxury bed and breakfast run by Sophie and Laurent Mencherini. It took them 3 years to restore the Palazzo, with its vaulted, cobblestoned courtyard and rooms with frescoed ceilings but it was worth the wait. The furniture is stylish and minimal leaving the original features to speak for themselves and bathrooms are sleek and contemporary. My bedroom had a really beautiful, frescoed, ceiling above the bed and I thought that the chilled flutes in the fridge along with the bottles of Prosecco were a lovely touch.
The piece de resistance though is the walled garden where there is a swimming pool, perfect for cooling off but just big enough to actually swim. The garden is sunny in the morning and shaded by the afternoon – perfect for relaxing on a sun lounger after a busy day exploring. Absolute peace reigns and you would never realise you are in a busy part of town.
When I stayed, breakfast was also served in the garden. I loved that Sophie asked me what I would like (fruit, coffee and a pastry) and got the impression that whatever I wanted would have magically appeared. I had a choice of two pastries and a selection of perfect fruit. I was about to go inside and ask for a top up of coffee when someone appeared to offer me some as well as asking if I would like more grapes (the only fruit I had finished).
I really appreciated Sophie’s warm but unobtrusive style of hospitality. When I realised I had left my phone charger at home I sent her a message on WhatsApp and was brought one within minutes. Check in was smooth – both Sophie and Laurent were there to greet me, and Laurent helped me up the stairs with my luggage (all the bedrooms are upstairs and there isn’t a lift so not suitable for people with mobility issues). There are x bedrooms, each more beautiful than the last, making this the perfect place for a romantic break or honeymoon. There is also an apartment with a kitchen.
If you would like your own Palazzo to live in, and maybe run as a hospitality business, then I spotted two interesting properties in Galatina recently. The first, Palazzo Andriani, covers 550 square metres and has already been restored to a very high standard, providing three one bedroomed apartments which can be combined and a large open space on the ground floor which could provide additional accommodation. Currently on the market at 1,350,000 Euro.
The other one, Palazzo Siciliani, also covering around 550m2 with a panoramic roof terrace is unrestored but has beautiful period features, dating back in parts to the 17th century. Restored it would provide 6 bedrooms or three independent apartments each with its own outdoor space and garage (very hard to find in the historic centre). It is priced for a quick sale at 350,000 which is significantly below market rates and, with the right team could be move in ready within 18 months . It is in good structural condition so total cost would be under a million, restored.
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