“Can we stop again? This one’s even more beautiful than the last”, I shouted into the wind as we turned the corner on another breathtaking view of perfectly stacked rice fields.
My friend Ben and I couldn’t help ourselves: we were hopping off the motorbike every fifteen minutes to marvel and take pictures of the sprawling landscapes. From electric green rice fields to winding mountain passes, every turn on the Cao Bang Loop yielded views more stunning than the last.
The Cao Bang region, east of Ha Giang and just south of China, boasts amazing scenery, food, history and hospitality. Driving the Cao Bang Loop feels like a never-ending choose your own adventure storybook where the most difficult choice is which waterfall to spend the afternoon swimming in.
If you’re looking for a quieter alternative to the tour groups of the Ha Giang Loop, Cao Bang may be the perfect motorbike adventure for you. Although it can require a bit of extra planning and more of a “go with the flow” mentality (think dirt roads, herds of goats causing traffic jams, the occasional wrong but beautiful turn), the entire region is rich with untouched natural beauty and warm hospitality from local communities. In this guide, I’ll share my experience, recommendations, and itinerary on the Cao Bang Loop from April 2026.
Getting There
You’ll likely be getting the bus from Hanoi, which can easily be booked on 12Go or via a local transit agency (tickets can be cheaper than online if you have the time to purchase them in person). It takes about 6 hours and our shuttle dropped us off at our accommodation. You will likely arrive in the evening, so you can either start the loop immediately the next morning or take a day to get organized.
If you have the time, it is worth spending a day in Cao Bang City to explore and plan your trip.
Some of the accommodations on the Loop can book out a few days in advance and there are countless potential stops. Taking the time to talk to the local motorbike shop about current road conditions, recommended stops for the time of year, and booking your home stays in advance allows you to enjoy your adventure instead of thinking about logistics.
We stayed at the Cao Bang Eco Homestay and planned most of our route with the friendly staff a day in advance. They also have a bike shop and rented us our motorbike, helmets, and bag straps.
While in Cao Bang, you must try one of the delicacies of this region: snails. Most traditional restaurants offer a snail meal for two which includes a full spread with multiple sides and drinks for about $10. It is well worth the experience of sitting with the locals and taking in the surroundings while trying something new.
After dinner, you can head over the bridge into town to grab a pastry at one of the many bakeries, or visit the Vinamilk store (an entire storefront dedicated to milk. It’s a little strange but worth checking out).
Preparing for Launch
The average time to spend driving the Loop is 4 days, 3 nights, but this could easily be extended. The Loop itself is actually two loops to both the east and west from Cao Bang City, making a sort of venn diagram shape on the map. You can start in either direction and stay in Cao Bang again on the second night. Each evening, Ben and I would sit down with our map and align on the stops we wanted to make and how much driving we had to our next accommodation.
The most beautiful part of the Loop is the scenery on the drive and the unexpected detours you can choose to take, so you’ll want to avoid driving at night if possible. We drove an average of three hours a day, typically starting at 8am and getting to our accommodation by 6pm.
On the difficulty level: As someone who learned how to drive a motorbike during my time in Southeast Asia with no prior experience, I think driving the Loop yourself depends on your confidence. While I felt I could have driven it myself, there were times I was grateful Ben (who had a bit more experience than me) was driving. The most difficult section is near Cao Bang City where there are a lot of trucks and blind turns. Most of the driving is quite rural and mountainous, so once you are past the city, it depends on your ability to drive and navigate for 3+ hours a day through mountain passes, dirt roads, and steep hills. I wouldn’t categorize it as beginner territory, but definitely not the most advanced driving I witnessed.
Ben and I shared one motorbike with our luggage strapped to the back. We chose to bring one small bag and leave the rest of our luggage at our hostel in Cao Bang City. We brought basic toiletries, a change of clothes, and swimsuits.
I highly recommend packing a few snacks. We got caught up enjoying the views for so long that we missed our window to eat lunch on more than one occasion. Restaurant options are not abundant on most sections of the loop, as you are driving through very rural countryside. If you see something resembling a restaurant with plastic stools, stop to take advantage. It might be the last “restaurant” you see for a few hours! We would often use Google Translate to say “Food for two please, we will eat anything” and ended up with some pretty phenomenal meals.
Day 1 Itinerary
We started the day at 8am heading east out of Cao Bang City for a short hike at the Ba Quáng Grass Hills (also called Vĩnh Quý Grass Hill). There is an overlook you can access about a 20 minute walk up from the parking area for a stunning 360 view of the surrounding mountains. The hills change colors in different seasons, but we were lucky enough to see them in vibrant green in April.
After our hike, we stopped for a quick lunch at a street stall on our way to the Ban Gioc waterfall. Make sure you bring enough cash for your journey! There are no ATMs along the way, so pulling out enough cash in Cao Bang City is imperative.
We arrived at Ban Gioc in the early afternoon, making it the perfect time to go for a swim. You can swim in only one of the waterfalls, as the larger one is reserved for boats. The waterfall sits on the border between Vietnam and China, so you can wave to the tourists in the boats from China from the Vietnam side of the river!
Our last stop of the day was the Nguom Ngao cave, a large cave system only a short drive from the waterfall. We stopped for some fresh mango outside, then wandered through to admire the stalagmites before setting off to our homestay for the evening at Diep Homestay, a lovely home tucked away on a farm 15 minutes away.
One of the most rewarding aspects of exploring Northern Vietnam is experiencing local life through your homestay. Typically, there are a small number of private rooms available for $10-$20 per night including breakfast. You can also choose to add on a family style dinner for about $5. Because most homestays are in remote locations without restaurants, almost all of the guests will join for the meal. A typical homestay dinner consists of rice, omelette, vegetables, chicken, and beef or duck. It is sufficient to say you will not leave hungry – or sober, if you choose. The meal also includes locally brewed rice wine, or “happy water” that the host will encourage you to drink with them and the other guests. We enjoyed indulging in our fair share of happy water and meeting people from all over the world each night.
When staying in a homestay, remember that you are a guest of a local family. Be courteous, respectful, and clean, as you would want any guest in your own home to be. The people in this region are incredibly kind, curious, and welcoming. Homestays are an excellent way to observe local culture and leave a good impression on the community.
Day 2 Itinerary
Our second day of driving started in the Ngoc Con Valley. This stretch of road boasted the most rural landscapes of all, through small villages and winding dirt roads. We stopped to hike up to this overlook called the Pi Pha Viewpoint and enjoy watching the fog roll over the mountains.
We continued on to the Phong Nam Valley, towering karsts jutting from the rice paddies on either side as the roads became narrow dirt paths. We eventually found ourselves the only people amongst rice paddies and horses. Having forgotten to eat lunch, we stopped to eat peanut butter from the jar and watch mist settle into the valley. It was the most peace I have ever felt in one place; even the bees seemed to move lazily between flowers. Ben and I decided to hop back on the bike to continue on our way before one of us fell asleep laying in the field.
Our final stop before arriving back in Cao Bang for the night was Angel Eye mountain, a mountain with a hole in the center. I highly recommend visiting for sunset so you can see the sun go down through it! We took pictures in the valley below and ate ice cream cones with the other visitors. The joy in the air from witnessing something so beautiful was palpable.
We finished the day back at the Cao Bang Eco Homestay, changed out some of our clothes from our bigger bags, and went to bed early before another day of adventure.
Day 3 Itinerary
Our third day started off early with banana pancakes and coffee before driving to see Pac Bo Cave: the very cave where Ho Chi Minh lived briefly after his return to Vietnam. The site is peaceful and well maintained, but slightly difficult to navigate. Be sure to hop on an electrical shuttle for a smooth journey from the parking area to the cave to avoid getting lost.
You can then take a leisurely stroll through the turquoise lagoon and gardens to explore the cave, but be aware the information is all in Vietnamese. You may want to read up on the historical significance before visiting.
After a late lunch of banh mi from a road-side stall, we hopped on the bike to finish out the day with the winding Khau Coc Cha pass. Just before the twists and turns is a sunset cafe overlooking the valley where we stopped for a smoothie and played with the owner’s puppies.
Our homestay in the Bao Lac village at Bao Lac Homestay was another 30 minute drive up a steep hill to a panoramic view of the valley. We witnessed a booming thunderstorm that painted the sky black after dinner, grateful to have made it in time.
Day 4 Itinerary
Our final day began with another banana pancake breakfast before hopping on the bike to return to Cao Bang City. There is a supposed bamboo forest on the way that we were unable to locate, even with the help of some locals. After a few failed attempts to find it, we resigned to a leisurely day of riding and stopping for much needed stretch breaks.
We chose to drive through the Phia Oac National Park in the afternoon, although it is a detour from the main road back to Cao Bang. The further you drive into the park, the further you have to backtrack, and by this point we were pretty sore from sitting on the bike for four days. It was very quiet on the road and we stopped a few times to read the plaques about the history of former French residents.
We arrived back in Cao Bang at sunset with the same feeling you get after a perfect day at the beach: happy, sun kissed, a little dirty, and ready to enjoy the air conditioning. The Cao Bang Loop was one of the highlights of my trip to Southeast Asia and I would recommend it to anyone looking for a DIY motorbike adventure in a relatively untouched area of Northern Vietnam. Safe driving!
Want to dive deeper into north Vietnam? Then don’t miss our detailed guides to the Ha Giang Loop, the best day trips from Hanoi, our tips for off-the-beaten-path alternatives to Sapa, and why Cat Ba Island can be a much better option than Ha Long Bay.
