Have you heard of Hat Yai? For most, it’s a mandatory transit point in Southern Thailand when heading to Malaysia. However, very few travelers stick around to actually explore it.
More than ten years ago, I was one of those people who just passed through and only grabbed a quick breakfast in between my rides. This time, I decided to stay—and I’m so glad I did.
For me, Songkhla was the highlight and reason enough to make my visit worthwhile. This charming harbor town, just a short ride away from Hat Yai, bursts with history and character. It felt like George Town in Penang, just without the crowds (at least during the week).
Beyond that, I discovered a unique stainless-steel temple, a Taj Mahal-inspired mosque, and incredible fusion cuisine in Hat Yai.
This makes Hat Yai absolutely worth more than just a bus transfer. It is perfect for independent travelers who want to experience a different side of Thailand — one that already has a Malaysian vibe and is a true melting pot of cultures.
Is Hat Yai safe?
Let’s address a common concern first.
Many foreign offices advise against visiting the southeasternmost provinces of Thailand due to historical civil unrest. While the province of Songkhla is often mentioned in travel advisories, these usually exclude the actual cities of Hat Yai and Songkhla, which are mentioned in this guide.
In my experience, the area felt extremely safe, and the locals were incredibly friendly and welcoming. A local woman even helped me charge my phone after I had taken too many pictures in Songkhla and was running out of juice. We ended up chatting for much longer, and this random act of kindness totally made my day.
While you should always check your country’s current travel advisory, don’t let it scare you away from these specific areas.
How to get to Hat Yai
Hat Yai is the primary transportation hub of Southern Thailand. It offers connections to the Andaman coast to the west, the Gulf islands to the east, and Malaysia to the south.
Here are the most important routes:
- Koh Lipe & Langkawi (Malaysia) via Tammalang Pier (Satun)
- Krabi & Koh Lanta via Trang
- Koh Samui, Koh Phangan & Koh Tao via Surat Thani
- Penang (Malaysia) with minivan
While the train is an option for Surat Thani, direct vans are much smoother than the train to Butterworth (Penang) for the border crossing to Malaysia. If you take the train, you have to switch at the border (Padang Besar), which adds significant waiting time.
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Where to stay in Hat Yai
Right in the city center of Hat Yai is Siam Mansion. It offers modern, clean, and affordable dorms and private rooms. It’s popular with Malaysian weekenders, but during the week, it’s quiet, making it the perfect base in Hat Yai.
Another option is to stay directly in Songkhla, which is calmer and has more charm. An affordable accommodation here is Yu Cafe Hostel, located in the middle of the old quarter in a historic house with a lot of character and a cute café downstairs.
Getting around
To truly see the sights, I highly recommend renting a motorbike for the day. The landmarks are spread out, and having your own wheels gives you the freedom to see more.
My recommended 1-day itinerary:
Chedi Stainless → Hat Yai City Municipal Park → Songkhla → Wat Laem Pho (lying Buddha) → Central Mosque Songkhla → Khlong Hae Floating Market (weekends only)
No bike? No problem.
You can take a songthaew (local bus) or minivan from the clock tower in Hat Yai to Songkhla (1 hours, Approximate — rates updated daily or the Municipal Park. For the rest, use the Grab app to order a ride.
Things to do in Hat Yai & Songkhla
The city centre of Hat Yai feels more like Malaysia than Thailand. There aren’t many classic tourist sights in the center, most are on the outskirts. Instead, Hat Yai is a popular getaway for Malaysians who come mainly for the shopping and the food. (more on that later).
1. The Old Quarter of Songkhla
Let’s start with my personal highlight, which lies just 30 kilometers outside of Hat Yai. The historic center of Songkhla reminds me so much of George Town (which I love), but it’s much smaller and lesser-known. It only gets busy with Malaysian tourists on the weekends; during the week, it’s a peaceful and tranquil town.
Songkhla used to be an important trading port named Singora. Over the centuries, it was an international hub for Indian, Dutch, British, and Chinese traders. Their influence is still visible today in the blend of European colonial architecture and Chinese culture.
The town was also invaded by the Japanese during the Second World War. It was then used as a base to continue the invasion of Malaysia, and the Japanese made their way to Singapore within two months.
This gives you an idea of how important Songkhla once was and explains its diversity.
I arrived early in town and found a traditional coffee house where locals were stopping by for tea and steamed buns (bao). It was the best start to the day and set a laid-back tone for my visit.
Afterward, I wandered the streets, found a bunch of street art, and visited several temples, from old Chinese shrines like the City Pillar to colorful Thai Buddhist temples. I even found a hidden mosque that reminded me of the old ones in Melaka.
Make sure to stop by the Red Rice Mill to learn about the town’s history, and check out the historic merchant houses like the Nakhon Nai Museum and Ai Lian China House, which are part-museum and part-shop. Another interesting stop was the Praphai Museum, which showcases a ceramic collection. You can visit all of these for free.
Finally, head up Khao Tang Kuan hill for the best views in town before relaxing at Samila Beach near the famous mermaid statue. The locals like to grab a snack here and sit under the trees in the shade.
2. Stainless Steel Chedi
Another find of mine was this one-of-a-kind temple in Hat Yai that I discovered on Google Maps. Phra Mahatha Chedi Traiphop Trai Mongkhol (called Stainless Steel Chedi) was a pleasant surprise: the first stainless steel stupa in the world, finished in 2006.
Stepping inside felt like entering Alice in Wonderland. The round entry gate led me deeper into the structure, which has a radial layout and a circular base. Each entrance represents a different day of the week and tells a different story of Buddha. You can continue onwards via the spiral staircase to the roof.
As an architect, I truly enjoyed the unique design and how they played with space to create a meditative atmosphere. It’s a hidden gem that very few people experience.
Here’s a video I made of the stupa, but the images on Google Maps are already interesting.
3. Hat Yai City Municipal Park
On your way to Songkhla, stop by this massive park and head up the hill through the mouth of the golden dragon. On your way, you will encounter various temples and are rewarded with great views of the city stretching to the sea at the top, which is a popular sunset spot for locals.
From there, a cable car (at Approximate — rates updated daily) takes you to another temple where you can see the three-headed pink elephant.
I visited the park during Loy Krathong (the famous festival often associated with Chiang Mai). In Hat Yai, it’s a much calmer experience. There were many stalls selling beautiful flower arrangements (krathongs) which people would light and send away with a prayer on the lake.
How to get back? Wave down one of the songthaew (local bus, 15 mins, 15 THB) at the bus stop here.
4. Central Mosque Songkhla
If you have a scooter, make a quick photo stop at Central Mosque Songkhla.
The architect was inspired by the Taj Mahal, creating a symmetric design with a long water basin out front. The interior is a bit disappointing compared to the outside, so it really only needs to be a short stop.
5. The Reclining Buddhas
Hat Yai has not one, but two Reclining Buddhas (also called Lying Buddhas).
The bigger one (35 meters) is at Wat Hat Yai Nai. While the one at Wat Pho in Bangkok is with 45 meters larger, this one is still impressive and doesn’t have many visitors. The only downside is that it is located under a roof.
That’s why the golden Reclining Buddha at Wat Laem Pho (near Songkhla) is actually nicer for photos. It’s only 25 meters long but sits out in the open, making it the perfect motorbike stopover.
6. Food & markets
Finally for many, Hat Yai is all about the food—a melting pot of Malaysian, Chinese, and Thai flavors. Don’t miss the Kim Yong Market for cheap dried fruits and nuts, or the local Dim Sum restaurants, which are a great way to sample different bites.
At night, street stalls pop up everywhere, especially on Thanon Suphasanrangsan and near Lee Gardens Plaza.
If you are there on a weekend, the Khlong Hae Floating Market (Fri–Sun, 3:00 PM – 9:00 PM) is a popular option. It’s small and a bit touristy, but fun for snacks from boats moored along the river.
Here’s where to go next from Hat Yai & Songkhla:
- Continuing south into Malaysia? George Town is the natural next stop – Penang’s UNESCO old town shares that same multicultural, food-first energy. Check out our full Penang guide.
- Heading north into Thailand instead? Trang and Krabi lead up the Andaman coast, or continue toward Khao Sok National Park before working your way up to Bangkok – our Thailand Itineraries guide shows how to link it together.
